How to become an expert on fruit acids (AHA, BHA, PHA...)?
If you're passionate about natural cosmetics and are looking for effective ways to improve the quality of your skin, you've probably already heard of fruit acids. For a few years now, they have become an ingredient of choice in cosmetics: they are used for their ability to gently exfoliate the skin, promote cell renewal and give a new skin by reducing the appearance of pigmentation spots and scars. In this article, we will explain everything about fruit acids: their different types, their effects on the skin and how to incorporate them into your daily skincare routine.
SUMMARY
- The different types of fruit acids
- What types of fruit acids for different skin types?
- How to integrate fruit acids into your skincare routine?
The different types of fruit acids
There are several types of fruit acids used in skin care products, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), polyhydroxy acids (PHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA). Each of these acids has different properties and benefits for the skin:
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are fruit-derived ingredients that gently exfoliate the top layer of skin. They are water-soluble acids that work on the skin's surface to remove dead skin cells, promote cell renewal and help reduce the appearance of dark spots and scars. AHAs are also known for their ability to improve skin hydration and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Some of the most commonly used are glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid. Glycolic acid is the strongest of the AHAs and is best suited for non-sensitive and mature skin, while lactic acid is milder and best suited for sensitive and dry skin. Malic acid is ideal for combination and oily skin.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are also fruit acids that are well known for their properties. Unlike AHAs, they are fat-soluble acids, meaning they are soluble in fat, which is why they are very effective ingredients for treating acne, blackheads and blackheads. This is because they penetrate deeper into the pores to help remove excess oil or, in other words, regulate sebum production. Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used BHAs and is often used in anti-acne products as it is an excellent anti-inflammatory. It deeply exfoliates pores and removes dead skin cells.
Finally, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a newer type of fruit acid but are becoming popular in skincare routines. Due to their larger molecular structure than AHAs, they penetrate the skin more slowly and work gently on the skin's surface. Much less irritating than AHA/BHA, they are often used to help gently exfoliate the skin, stimulate cell renewal and moisturize the skin. PHA fruit acids also have moisturizing and antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from free radicals and therefore help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Those most commonly found in cosmetic products are gluconolactone and phenyl lactobionate.
What types of fruits acids for different skin types ?
It is important to choose the type of acid that best suits your skin type. Dry and sensitive skin will prefer mild AHAs, such as lactic acid, while oily and acne-prone skin will prefer BHAs, such as salicylic acid. Combination skin can use both types of fruit acids, but alternately to avoid sensitizing the skin.
Do you have sensitive and dry skin?
Lactic acid is gentler than glycolic acid: it can help to gently exfoliate the skin and improve hydration, making it an excellent choice for mature and sensitive skin.
On the contrary, your skin is not very sensitive?
Glycolic acid is ideal for mature skin that is not very sensitive, as it can help stimulate cell renewal and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. However, it can be too strong for sensitive and dry skin, and can cause redness and irritation.
Is your skin combination to oily?
Malic acid is a versatile option that is great for this skin type. It can help remove excess oil from the skin while helping to stimulate cell turnover and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
Do you have oily, acne-prone skin?
Salicylic acid is a popular choice for problem skin. It can help penetrate deep into skin pores to remove impurities and excess oil, while helping to reduce inflammation and the appearance of large pores.
Is your skin very sensitive?
PHAs are a great option for all skin types, especially for people with sensitive skin. This is because PHAs are milder than AHAs and BHAs, which makes them less irritating to the skin. They can help gently exfoliate the skin and improve its hydration.
How to integrate fruit acids in your skincare routine?
Before using products based on fruit acids, it is necessary to take precautions.
Indeed, you must first of all avoid using fruit acids every day so as not to sensitize your skin. It is recommended to start slowly and gradually increase the frequency of use, being careful not to leave the acid on your skin for longer than the recommended time. Note that fruit acids can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, which can lead to age spots and premature wrinkles. It is therefore recommended to use sun protection during the day, even if you do not go outside, to protect your skin against sun damage.
At Kadalys, we can offer you fruit acids to integrate into your skincare routine in the form of peeling or lotion:
This 3-in-1 mask combines an enzymatic and mechanical exfoliating action thanks to the combination of Green Banana Bio-Active, Arginine and Jojoba Microbeads. Its creamy iridescent texture gently removes impurities and dead skin, refines skin texture and stimulates cell renewal. The formula is enriched with fruit acids, which you will recognize more easily in the INCI list under the name of “CITRUS MEDICA LIMONIUM (LEMON) FRUIT EXTRACT” or “VACCINIUM MYRTILLUS (BILBERRY) EXTRACT”. While AHAs stimulate cell turnover and restore skin elasticity, arginine helps accelerate healing and is known for its moisturizing properties. To be used once or twice a week, leaving it on for up to 10 minutes, or even 15 minutes on the face, depending on your degree of sensitivity.
The ideal lotion to perfect the cleansing of the skin by eliminating the last impurities without attacking the skin. Enriched with Bio-active Green Banana, Lemon Water and Lactic Acid, it unifies and brings radiance to your skin. Lemon water is rich in citric acid, an AHA that gently exfoliates the skin. Additionally, lemon water is also rich in vitamin C, an antioxidant also known for its lightening properties that can help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. As for lactic acid, it is also an AHA present in certain fruits and in fermented milk. This natural exfoliant helps stimulate cell renewal while preserving the hydrolipidic film. In the evening, apply a few drops of this lotion in the evening by tapping lightly on the face until completely absorbed.
